A Bicycle Trip to Ganghwa DMZ Following the Wind of Peace

Gyodongdo Island in Ganghwa-gun is home to the Peace Bicycle Path, stretching about 30 km. It is a circular loop that passes coastal barbed-wire fences and farm roads, stops by Manghyangdae overlooking the scenery of North Korea, and returns to the starting point via unpaved paths and coastal lake roads. You can ride your own bicycle or rent one at Gyodong Jebijip, the tourist information center in Gyodong-myeon. Daeryong Market, located near Gyodong Jebijip, is also well worth a visit. This market was established after the Korean War as refugees settled here. The narrow alleys are lined with old traditional market stalls alongside modern, trendy shops that opened in recent years. After cycling for just over an hour, you will arrive at Manghyangdae on Bammeori Mountain in northern Gyodongdo Island. Through the binoculars installed at Manghyangdae, the North Korean landscape feels close enough to touch. On your way out after touring Gyodongdo Island, it is great to wrap up your trip with a cup of coffee at Cafe Joyang Bangjik, located in Ganghwa-eup.

Along the way

1. 1

   Gyodong Jebijip

   교동제비집

   Located near Daeryong Market on Gyodongdo Island, Gyodong Jebijip welcomes visitors right at the entrance with swallows, the mascot of Gyodongdo Island. Offering IT-based tourist information content, the center allows visitors to experience VR (virtual reality) tours of Gyodongdo attractions and create their own Gyodong Newspaper. It also operates a bicycle rental shop, a cafe, and a souvenir shop, hosting a variety of programs.MoreLess

   

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2. 2

   Gyodongdo Daeryong Market

   교동도 대룡시장

   Daeryong Market is an alley market created by refugees who temporarily fled from Yeonbaek-gun, Hwanghae-do, to Gyodongdo Island during the Korean War. When the Han River Estuary became the division line and made returning home impossible, they recreated the look of Yeonbaek Market back home to make a living. It served as the center of Gyodongdo Island's economy for about 50 years, but the market's scale has shrunk considerably as most of the displaced elders who built it passed away and the population sharply declined. However, with the opening of Gyodongdaegyo Bridge in July 2014, it has become an essential destination for tourists seeking to capture the atmosphere of Daeryong Market, which resembles a 1960s movie set. Since late March of last year, Gyodong Giga Island (also known as "Gyodong Jebijip") has been in operation, offering IT-based travel guides, bicycle and smartwatch rental services, and various hands-on programs such as a 'VR video experience' and 'Making Gyodong Newspaper'.MoreLess

   

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3. 3

   Manghyangdae

   망향대

   Manghyangdae on Gyodongdo Island is a place where displaced people who fled from Yeonbaek, Hwanghae-do, during the Korean War and settled here perform ancestral rites while looking toward their hometown. It is a 15-minute drive from Daeryong-ri, Gyodongdo Island. Visitors can view the North Korean village landscape through the binoculars installed on the observation deck.MoreLess

   

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4. 4

   Joyang Bangjik

   조양방직

   Established in 1933 with domestic capital as Ganghwa's first artificial silk (rayon) factory, Joyang Bangjik eventually fell into ruins as the Ganghwa textile industry declined over time. The unsightly, crumbling structure met its current owner the year before last and was reborn as a massive cafe in July of last year. Its collapsing walls became a splendid art gallery and cinema, long worktables turned into coffee tables, and the space left behind by machines and workers was filled with antiques sourced from places like China and Europe.MoreLess

   

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