In Search of Yeongju's Quiet Seowon Academies and Old Temples

Take a quiet walk through Sosu Seowon, Korea's first royally chartered academy (sa-aek seowon, meaning the king bestowed its name plaque), and Sunheung Hyanggyo, both in Yeongju. It doesn't have the lively excitement of a hands-on activity course, but it offers a wonderful chance to fully feel the spirit of the scholar-gentleman, blended into serene nature. Visit in midsummer, and the cool sound of water in Juggyegugok Valley will make you forget the heat.

Along the way

1. 1
   Yeongju Sosu Seowon

   영주 소수서원

   A short way from Pungi-eup, Yeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do, toward Buseoksa Temple, Sosu Seowon stands on the right side of the road. It was Korea's first sa-aek seowon (an academy granted its name plaque directly by the king). A seowon was a private Joseon-era educational institution that honored and studied the teachings of virtuous scholars of the past; its basic facilities were a shrine enshrining portraits of these scholars and holding memorial rites, a lecture hall for learning and debate, and dormitories (jae) where students boarded. \nMoreLess

   

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2. 2

   Sunheung Hyanggyo

   순흥향교

   Sunheung Hyanggyo was originally founded at Geumseong, north of Sunheung-bu, but was relocated to Wiya-dong, east of the town, in 1718, the 44th year of King Sukjong of Joseon, and moved again to its present location in 1750, the 26th year of King Yeongjo, where it remains today. Crossing Jewol Bridge over Juggye Stream from Geumseongdan, taking the left path, turning left again at the Cheongdari village community hall, and walking a short way further uphill, you reach the school, which sits facing south on a hillside with a mountain at its back and water in front — the classic 'baesan-imsu' setting. In its layout, past the front Yeonggwiru Pavilion stand the east dormitory and kitchen quarters in front of Myeongnyundang Hall; behind these, in a separate walled section, an inner three-gate stands in front, with Daeseongjeon Hall set on the higher ground to the north. In front of Daeseongjeon, the east and west shrine halls face each other across an inner courtyard.\nMoreLess

   

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3. 3

   Lunch (Sunheung Traditional Mukjip)

   점심식사(순흥전통묵집)

   Made using a traditional method passed down since old times, this buckwheat jelly (memil-muk) keeps its original flavor intact. Served together with millet rice, the combination is exceptional — a buckwheat jelly with the true taste of home.\nMoreLess

   

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4. 4

   Buseoksa Temple (Yeongju)

   부석사(영주)

   Buseoksa Temple is the head temple of the Hwaeom (Avatamsaka) school, founded in 676, the 16th year of King Munmu of Silla, by royal order, by Great Master Uisang, founder of the Haedong Hwaeom school. While studying in Tang China, the master learned that Emperor Gaozong of Tang was planning to invade Silla; he reported this to the Silla king, and returned home resolved to overcome the trials facing the nation, within and without, by unifying public opinion through the principles of Hwaeom Buddhism he had mastered. He founded this temple upon his return, and it became the birthplace of Hwaeom thought in Korea. \nMoreLess

   

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5. 5

   Juggyegugok (Nine Bends of Juggye Stream)

   죽계구곡

   The valley stretching from Baejeom-ri to Choamsa Temple is known as Juggyegugok, the 'Nine Bends of Juggye Stream.' Long ago, Master Toegye Yi Hwang, captivated by the valley's stunning scenery and struck by how the sound of flowing water resembled song, gave each bend of the valley a fitting name, and it came to be called Juggyegugok. With water so clear you can see straight to the bottom, dense green forest, and white boulders glimpsed among the trees, Juggyegugok is a valley where you can sit down and dip your feet in at any point along the way, and it draws many visitors from across the country, especially during the sweltering summer vacation season. Nearby tourist attractions include Sosu Seowon, Buseoksa Temple, and the Eupnae-ri Painted Tomb. \nMoreLess

   

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